Category Archives: Villages & towns

Rue Cler market street

IMG_7915In the morning, we walked from our apartment to nearby Rue Cler, a famous market street in the 7th arrondissement with a wonderful selection of specialty food stores, patisseries, butchers, delicatessens, cheese specialists, fishmongers, greengrocers, chocolate shops and cafés.  Most of the street is a pedestrian area and still has its original cobblestones.  This authentic market street is where the locals go to buy their favorite foods or to meet friends and enjoy sitting on the terrace at one of the many cafés, while they watch the world go by.

Some of our favourite places on Rue Cler:

davoliDavoli – La Maison du Jambon: The lines leading onto the street indicate that this is one of the best and most popular shops in the neighbourhood. This Italian delicatessen sells homemade specialties from Italian sausages and meats to pasta, Italian cheeses, side dishes such as roasted peppers, desserts and the best sauerkraut choucroute in Paris. This is an excellent dish for a cold day. Tell the salesman how many you’ll be feeding they’ll suggest the delicious sausages, ham, meats and side dishes. All you have to do is heat and serve for an easy and fabulous dinner at home !

Darius Rotisserie – Chickens! The smells from this shop will make your mouth water and you may not get any further. This is a chicken brasserie; they cook flame roasted chickens, sold in bags which remain hot for an hour. You can buy whole chickens, breasts or legs so everyone can have their favorite meat. Another convenient take away option for dinner at home in your Paris rental apartment.

fromage4Fromagerie – this is an excellent cheese shop and very popular. This is a real dairy store where you can find a delicious selection of butters from Normandy , yogurts and fresh eggs. Excellent goats cheeses…everything is good! When you want a soft cheese, such as Camembert, Brie, Epoisse, St. Marcelin (the same as St. Felicien) or Neuchatel  — tell the salesperson when you plan to eat it.  “Ce soir” or “Demain”, etc. Your specialist will squeeze the packages until they find the cheese that will be perfect (or ‘fait’) at the moment you want to savor it. It’s really a treat! If you haven’t had St. Felicien or Marcelin (same cheese), try it and make sure it’s fait (ready to eat). It’s so creamy you almost need a spoon and you will be back the next day for more.

Top Halles – A large greengrocer with good quality produce and competitive prices.  They will help you to select the best products for ripeness and flavour, and they have great specials that are beautifully displayed outside. deli3

Deli Zius Gastonomia Italiana – Excellent Italian Specialties: you recognize it by the Olive trees outside. Delicious olives, pastas and other Italian specialties.

Oliviers and Co (O&CO) – This high quality group of stores is becoming known in the US, as their products are now distributed by Williams Sonoma.  Their prices are significantly lower than in the US, so it is worth stopping in and sampling their oils and specialties. We love their lemon flavored olive oil especially on salads, and their basil flavored olive oil on grilled fish.

Bacchus – This wine shop is a good one and they do a good job recommending wine for a particular meal. We also recommend the wine shop at 145 rue St. Dominique where they do an excellent job of recommending wines and offer good value for money. 

Charcuterie Jeusselin – Increasingly popular, this Charcuterie sells all French specialties and is located across the street from Davoli.  Their growing popularity and prepared casseroles and dishes make them a popular stop for locals.  Specialties are displayed in the glass cases in front of the shop and they have won several awards for their sausages.

Leonidas Chocolatier – Belgian chocolates which are excellent and reasonably priced.pastries

Boulangerie Patisserie – This boulangere is kitty corner from the Cafe du Marche. They have good pastries and breads, including the flute and grain breads. Note the beautiful windows and original features. We like their pain au raisin – our favourite morning pastry.

 

Cafe du Marche – The Cafe du Marche’ is one of the most popular cafe’s in the neighborhood, with a covered area outside where you can eat winter and summer. It’s a fun place to sit and people watch. Its also a great place for lunch with a number of daily specials on blackboards at reasonable prices.rue-cler

After we browsed the fabulous and tempting selection of products and made our purchases, we stopped at the Café Marché for a coffee and a pain au raisin from the boulangerie and sat on the terrace under the heat lamps to watch the morning activity unfold.

These experiences are part of the joy of renting an apartment in Paris, where you can live life like a local Parisian.

Advertisements

Paris Vacation Apartment Rental

pp0784a

We arrived at our Paris apartment, and were immediately drawn to the spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower from every room in the apartment. Our beautifully decorated apartment features a comfortable living room where you can relax after a busy day of sightseeing, and enjoy stunning views of the hourly light show as thousands of lights twinkle on the Eiffel Tower.

pp0784l

pp0784cThe charming bedroom has a queen bed lots of storage and two large windows with enchanting views of the Eiffel Tower.

pp0784h

The romantic dining room has an oak dining table and chairs set in front of an antique fireplace mantle and picture perfect framed views of the Eiffel Tower – an elegant setting for dinner at home.

An island separates the dining room from the kitchen, which has been beautifully remodeled with all the modern conveniences and appliances, including a Nespresso coffee machine. The renovated bathroom has a walk in shower with glass doors, toilet, and an antique marble sink.

 

The apartment is conveniently equipped with elevator access and air conditioning.

Contact France Bound for reservations at this Paris Luxury One Bedroom Apartment.

 

The apartment is located in the 7th arrondissement – one of the best neighbourhoods in Paris. Once we settled into the apartment, we were eager to get out for a walk along charming Rue St. Dominique, which is filled with enticing shops, cafés, boutiques and restaurants. After a stroll, we made our way to Café Constant – a favourite bistro style restaurant. Although it was busy, we were able to get a table upstairs and enjoyed a fabulous meal, as always. Highlights were the artichoke salad, and the crab and avocado salad starters; the roast chicken and grilled prawn main courses; and a shared crème brulée for desert. It was a great start to our week in Paris.

Apt market

371The weekly Saturday morning market in Apt has taken place since the Middle Ages, and is considered an outstanding market and one of the best in the region. The atmosphere, quality and range of the products are superb.

A kaleidoscope of colours and fragrances tempt shoppers and passers-by as they wander through the streets of the historical centre of Apt.

373 374

At the market stands, you will find local produce and products, food, flowers, herbs, soaps, clothes, fabrics, table cloths, baskets, musicians, and more. Many shops along the market also stay open or have stalls on the pavement, adding to the selection of goods.

369 372

We love to discover local artisans and specialty producers at the markets. At the Apt market, we we found a fabulous selection of fresh wild Cèpes mushrooms that are in season in the fall. Their French name cep comes from the Gascon word for ‘trunk’, referring to the mushrooms’ thick, creamy stem. Their Italian name porcini however translates as ‘piglet’ and refers to the little, plump, spongy cup which has mild, nutty notes.

030Cèpes mushrooms are quite large and one of the most flavourful mushrooms making them a sought after delicacy and a favourite of French chefs. They have a delicious hearty rich flavour with the perfect combination of earthy and sweet taste. Cèpes also retain nearly all of their taste when dried, making them one of the most versatile varieties found in many French and Italian dishes. Watch for an upcoming post about how to prepare cèpes mushrooms & some recipes.

Also at the Apt market, we sampled foie gras produced by a charming gentleman from Gers in the Midi Pyrenees region of SW France, who has a farm and has been raising ducks and producing excellent foie gras for decades.

368  375

393

The market sprawls and swirls through several alleys and squares in the heart of old Apt, which is centered around the 11th-century Cathedral, on what was once an island between two branches of the river Calavon. Two ancient towers, the 18th-century Bouquerie tower and the 16th- century Tour de l’Horloge both have beautiful campaniles. In some of the narrow, paved streets you’ll see vaulted passages and some very lovely fountains.

394

 

 

In the village, we discovered a fascinating shop & atelier where beautiful handmade marbled faience pottery is made in the traditional methods established in Apt in the 18th century. The elderly gentlemen explained the ancient technique passed down from generation to generation, and took us through the atelier to show us samples of  pottery pieces in progress. The mixing of coloured faience with yellow and red ochre and other natural pigmentations (manganese and cobalt) is covered by a light film of transparent glaze to bring out the veins and the enhance the marbling to create depth and movement.378

We really enjoyed our visit to the Apt market. It is one of the biggest weekly markets in Provence, and has been going on for some 900 years.  The market is definitely worth a visit, and takes place on Saturday mornings until about noon, year round.

 

 

Roussillon

326Roussillon is an incredibly picturesque Luberon village and classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

As you walk through the village you will see the clock tower and its campanile, the vestiges of the ramparts, the remains of the 10th century castle, narrow cobblestone streets, squares and vaulted passageways, and lovely 17th & 18th century homes with ochre washed facades & tiled roofs.

211

333Roussillon was long specialised in the mining of the natural pigments contained in the ochre lands – and only stopped in 1945 with the advent of synthetic products.

Next to the village there is an ochre path through the heart of the old ochre quarries, where you can appreciate the great beauty and many shades of the ochre colours contrasted against the green pine trees and intense blue skies.

322 302

You can also explore the history of the ochre mines by visiting the “Conservatoire des Ocres et des Couleurs” set up in a former ochre factory just outside the village, where you can learn all about the use of ochres, and take part in classes.

 

Roussillon has many restaurants from simple cafes to high end fine dining with views of the ochre cliffs. Most restaurants are clustered around the square near the top of the village and the picturesque mairie and clock tower. There is also a great ice cream and sandwich shop “Côté Sucré Salé”, just as you start walking up the hill towards the ochre quarry and cemetery. You can sit on the wall overlooking the ochre cliffs with your ice cream, or take your sandwich into the quarry, where there are a few small picnic areas.

8465-terraceWhere to stay in Roussillon:  In the heart of the village, Maison Jolie is an exceptional and very well appointed vacation rental house with 3 bedrooms & bathrooms, wonderful views, a heated pool, surrounded by terraces, luxury amenities, and lots of charm. The house is characterized by large rooms with typical, warm Provencal decoration, including a vaulted ceiling kitchen with an antique oak table. The house is elevated and the terrace is up one floor from the street level, so it is a private and calm space with magnificent views of the Mont Ventoux, the vineyards of the Luberon valley, and the ochre cliffs of Roussillon.

8465dd 8465-salon

Contact http://www.francebound.net for reservations.

Gordes

339

Gordes is a very beautiful village, perched on the southern edge of the Vaucluse plateau. The stone buildings and houses cling to the cliffs and spill down the southern hillside. The view of the village on approach is stunning, and from within the village the view is a southern panorama out across the fields and forests and small perched villages to the Luberon hills.

gordes-squareCrowned by a Renaissance castle, the narrow cobblestone streets wind around a small square with a fountain and terrace cafes. The stone paths and steps meander through the village past lovely stone houses built on several levels and spectacular views of the Luberon valley. The village has many restaurants, cafes, art galleries, and several other shops plus a market on Tuesday mornings.  Gordes offers exceptional charm, and is one of the most beautiful villages of France.gordes-bories

Just outside Gordes , you can visit the Village de Bories, an ancient hamlet of all dry-stone buildings that are found in this area, including a fascinating collection of houses, walls, barns and a variety of other enclosures, including a period silk-making shop. gordes-senanque

 

 

Nearby, just to the north of Gordes a small roads leads to the picturesque Abbaye de Sénanque only 4 km away. The Abbaye de Sénanque is particularly beautiful in June when the fields of lavender are in bloom.

 

Where to stay: Domaine Gordes is an exceptional villa for up to 12 guests with 6 bedrooms & bathrooms, heated pool, incredible views, sumptuous furnishings & decor, and a tennis court. Contact http://www.francebound.net for reservations.

8457c 8457d

8457zf 8457za

Villa Luberon

8423bbVilla Luberon is an ideal retreat for a holiday in the Luberon. With breathtaking views and exceptional comfort and privacy, this luxury villa is one of our favourite villas in the Luberon. Featuring an open floor plan with spectacular views of the mountains, nearby villages, and surrounding vineyards through multiple French doors and large windows, this large private property includes a main house with 3 ensuite bedrooms, a guest house with 2 ensuite bedrooms, several outdoor terraces, a heated horizon pool, and beautiful gardens.

114The villa is beautifully designed and very well appointed. In the main house, the spacious open plan living and dining rooms have cathedral ceilings, rustic wood beams, plus a wall of French doors opening out to the terraces, pool, and panoramic views.  The Provençal-style chef’s kitchen is at the heart of the home, and is equipped with top-of-the-line appliances, and a large country style table that is perfect for informal meals and kitchen gatherings.

8423kitchenThree large bedrooms in the main house, all have king-size beds, en-suite bathrooms, and air conditioning. One is on the main floor and the other two are upstairs. All the bedrooms enjoy gorgeous views of the countryside, and open to terraces. The smaller adjacent guesthouse is perfect for teenagers or a  nanny and younger children: 1 room with queensize bed, plus a children’s room with twin beds. Both rooms also have ensuite bathrooms and air conditioning.This beautifully appointed villa accommodate up to 10 guests.

8423exterior

Nearby Goult is a charming and relatively quiet Luberon village with pretty golden stone houses, several shops, cafes & restaurants, and a Monday morning market. At the top of the village is a picturesque windmill with panoramic views.

Contact http://www.francebound.net for reservations. There is still good availability for 2015.

Lourmarin

399

The village of Lourmarin lies in the southern Luberon valley, at the base of the Luberon range and sheltered from the Mistral winds. Lourmarin is one of the loveliest villages: it has a special art de vivre, charming boutiques, art galleries, cultural sites and a beautiful Provençal market, which are all reasons why Lourmarin is so popular for visiting and living.

396

This perfect Provencal village is one of our favourites. The village is filled with outdoor cafes and restaurants spilling out onto the cobblestone streets throughout the village – a fabulous place to spend a morning or an afternoon enjoying the sunshine and the Provencal lifestyle.

The beautiful Renaissance castle is worth a visit and is surrounded by beautiful green fields, The impressive belfry Castelas stands at the highest point of the village, and is built on the remains of the medieval moated castle that once dominated Lourmarin.

364

Many artists lived and worked In Lourmarin, including the Nobel prize-winning French author Albert Camus, whose L’Etranger is one of the great novels of the 20th century. Albert Camus is buried in Lourmarin cemetery and has a street in Lourmarin named after him.

There are lots of pretty cobblestone streets and walking paths winding into the village, where you will find lots of charming boutiques. Lourmarin has a market every Friday morning, which fills the main street leading into the village. It is a good sized market and one of our favourite in the area.

397During our week in the Luberon, we had coffee or lunch several times in Lourmarin at the outdoor cafes in the beautiful late October sunshine. We had great salads at L’Insolite and Chez Gaby on the Place de la Fontaine.

398

 

 

 

 

 

The Michelin starred chef Reine Sammut has her famous gastronomic restaurant  and hotel – the Auberge la Fenière, in Lourmarin. And we enjoyed a lovely Sunday afternoon lunch with friends at the newer Bistrot, which was excellent. Highlights were the peach and grapefruit cocktail, and the seabass served with a caper, olive and tomato sauce – delicious.